Wasatch Brewery

Wasatch Brewery: Utah's First Craft Beer Revolution

Founded: 1986 Founder: Greg Schirf Flagship Beer: Polygamy Porter ("Why have just one?") Location: Park City, Utah (original); Salt Lake City (expanded) Significance: First craft brewery in Utah, sparked the state's craft beer movement Parent Company: CANarchy Craft Brewery Collective (since 2017) Annual Production: 20,000+ barrels GABF Awards: Multiple Gold/Silver/Bronze medals

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Opening

It's 1986. Utah is deep in the grip of restrictive liquor laws, dominated by a conservative Mormon culture that views alcohol with suspicion. The state produces only 3.2% ABV beer for grocery stores—weak, watery, and uninspiring. Meanwhile, across America, a craft beer revolution is brewing in Portland, Seattle, and Boulder.

And then Greg Schirf, a ski bum with a law degree and a dream, opens Wasatch Brewery in Park City, Utah.

The tagline? "Utah Beer. Elevated."

Wasatch Brewery didn't just brew beer—it challenged Utah's identity. It proved that you could make world-class craft beer in the heart of Mormon country. And it did so with irreverent humor, award-winning brews, and a defiant middle finger to anyone who said it couldn't be done.

Wasatch Brewery is the godfather of Utah craft beer. Everything that came after started here.

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Act I: The Founding - A Ski Town Brewery (1986)

Greg Schirf: The Unlikely Brewer

Who Was Greg Schirf?

• Not a brewer (at first)—he was a lawyer who loved skiing
• Moved to Park City in the early 1980s to ski and escape the corporate grind
• Fell in love with craft beer during trips to Colorado (visited Boulder Beer Company, New Belgium)
• Saw an opportunity: Utah had no craft breweries

The Vision:

"I wanted to brew beer that people actually wanted to drink. Not the watered-down 3.2% stuff. Real beer. And I wanted to do it in a ski town where people appreciate quality."

The Challenge:

• Utah's liquor laws were among the strictest in the nation
• Breweries could only serve beer on-premise (not sell packaged beer to-go)
• The Mormon-majority legislature was skeptical of alcohol businesses
• 3.2% ABV limit for grocery store beer (anything stronger required state liquor stores)

Schirf's Strategy:

• Open as a brewpub (brew and serve on-site)
• Focus on quality over quantity
• Use humor and irreverence to disarm critics
• Build a brand that locals (even non-drinkers) could be proud of

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The First Brew: 1986

Location: 250 Main Street, Park City, UT (original brewpub)

The Opening:

• Wasatch Brewery opened in August 1986
• First craft brewery in Utah (beating Squatters by a few years)
• Small operation: 7-barrel system, bar seating, limited menu
• Initial offerings: Pale Ale, Amber, Stout

Immediate Reception:

• Locals loved it (ski town tourists and Park City residents embraced craft beer)
• National attention (ski industry media covered "beer in Mormon country")
• Resistance from conservative groups (some called for boycotts, protests)

Schirf's Response to Critics:

"We're not forcing anyone to drink. We're just giving people a choice. That's pretty American, isn't it?"

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Act II: Polygamy Porter and the Power of Irreverence

The Beer That Defined Wasatch

Polygamy Porter - Released 1989

The Name:

• A cheeky reference to Mormon polygamy (practiced by early LDS Church, outlawed in 1890)
• Tagline: "Why have just one?" (a double entendre: Why have one wife? Why have one beer?)

The Controversy:

• Mormon Church was NOT amused
• Some Utah politicians called it "offensive" and "disrespectful"
• Calls to ban the beer or force a name change

Schirf's Defense:

"It's a joke. A good-natured joke. Polygamy is part of Utah's history. We're not mocking anyone—we're acknowledging it with humor. And besides, the beer is damn good."

Why It Worked:

1. Quality First: The beer itself was exceptional—rich, chocolatey, smooth
2. Free Publicity: Controversy = media coverage = brand awareness
3. Cultural Commentary: It poked fun at Utah's sanctimoniousness while celebrating local history
4. National Appeal: Visitors loved the audacity ("I drank Polygamy Porter in Utah!")

Awards:

• GABF Silver Medal (1996, 2001)
• World Beer Cup Bronze (2004)
• Consistently rated as one of the best porters in the U.S.

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The "Blasphemous Brand" Strategy

Other Controversial Beers:

"Evolution Amber Ale" (1990s):

• Released during debates about teaching evolution in Utah schools
• Label featured Darwin's evolution diagram
• Pissed off creationists; sold like crazy

"Polygamy Nitro Porter" (2015):

• Nitro version of Polygamy Porter
• Even smoother, creamier
• Won GABF Gold (2015)

Why This Approach Worked:

• Utah's beer drinkers were often non-Mormon or lapsed Mormons—they appreciated the irreverence
• Tourists wanted a piece of "rebellious Utah"
• Media covered every controversy, giving Wasatch millions in free advertising

Salt Lake Magazine (2023):

"Wasatch Brewery's 'blasphemous branding' turned local beer into a national story. They proved you could challenge norms and still thrive in Utah."

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Act III: Expansion and Evolution (1990s–Present)

From Park City to Salt Lake City

1999: Wasatch opens a second location in Salt Lake City (originally on 2100 South, now relocated)

2000s: Squatters Pub Brewery (founded 1989) merges under Utah Brewers Cooperative (parent company for both Wasatch and Squatters)

2017: CANarchy Craft Brewery Collective acquires Utah Brewers Cooperative

• CANarchy: Portfolio includes Oskar Blues, Cigar City, Perrin Brewing
• Wasatch and Squatters maintain separate brands but share distribution

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The GABF Dominance

Great American Beer Festival (GABF) Awards: Wasatch has won 20+ medals at GABF, including:

• Polygamy Porter: Silver (1996, 2001)
• Polygamy Nitro Porter: Gold (2015)
• Devastator Double Bock: Gold (2002)
• Evolution Amber: Bronze (multiple years)
• Apricot Hefeweizen: Silver (2004)

Why This Matters: GABF is the most prestigious beer competition in America (10,000+ entries annually). Wasatch's consistent wins proved that Utah beer could compete nationally.

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The 3.2% Law Fight

The Old Law (1930s–2019):

• Beer sold in grocery/convenience stores limited to 3.2% ABV (by weight, ~4% by volume)
• Anything stronger required state liquor stores
• Wasatch (and other Utah breweries) had to brew two versions of many beers:
  • Draft/Liquor Store: Full strength (5–7% ABV)
  • Grocery Store: Watered-down 3.2% ABV

The Change (2019):

• Utah legislature repealed the 3.2% law
• Grocery stores could now sell beer up to 5% ABV
• Wasatch and other breweries could sell one version in all retail channels

Wasatch's Reaction:

"Finally. It only took 30 years. Now we can focus on brewing great beer instead of brewing two versions of everything."

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What You Can Experience Today

Wasatch Brewpub Locations

1. Park City - "Top of Main"

• Address: 250 Main Street, Park City, UT 84060
• Vibe: Original location, ski-town atmosphere, historic building
• Menu: Pub fare (burgers, wings, fish & chips) + full beer lineup
• Events: Live music, ski season specials

2. Salt Lake City - Sugar House

• Address: 2110 S Highland Dr, Salt Lake City, UT 84106
• Vibe: Casual neighborhood brewery, family-friendly
• Menu: Expanded food menu, craft cocktails, full beer lineup

Taproom Hours:

• Open 7 days/week (hours vary by location—check website)
• Tours available by appointment

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The Beer Lineup

Year-Round Beers:

• Polygamy Porter - The flagship (5.5% ABV, rich, chocolatey)
• Apricot Hefeweizen - Wheat beer with apricot (4.5% ABV)
• Jalapeño Cream Ale - Spicy, refreshing (4.2% ABV)
• Devastator Double Bock - Big, malty, strong (8.2% ABV)
• Wasatch IPA - Classic West Coast IPA (6.5% ABV)

Seasonals:

• Summerbrau Lager (Summer)
• Pumpkin Ale (Fall)
• 1st Amendment Lager (Rotating)

Limited Releases:

• Barrel-Aged Series (bourbon barrel-aged stouts, porters)
• Collaboration Brews (with other Utah breweries)

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Key Facts at a Glance

| Category | Details | |--------------|-------------| | Founded | 1986 (first craft brewery in Utah) | | Founder | Greg Schirf | | Flagship Beer | Polygamy Porter ("Why have just one?") | | Locations | Park City (original), Salt Lake City (Sugar House) | | Annual Production | 20,000+ barrels | | Parent Company | CANarchy Craft Brewery Collective (since 2017) | | GABF Awards | 20+ medals (Gold, Silver, Bronze) | | Significance | Pioneered Utah craft beer scene, challenged liquor laws |

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The Legacy: How Wasatch Changed Utah

Before Wasatch (Pre-1986):

• Zero craft breweries in Utah
• Weak 3.2% ABV beer dominated
• Beer culture was non-existent
• Utah was seen as a "dry" state (despite legal alcohol sales)

After Wasatch (1986–Present):

• Sparked Utah's craft beer movement (now 30+ breweries)
• Proved craft beer could succeed in conservative markets
• Challenged and eventually helped change liquor laws
• Put Utah on the national craft beer map
• Created a tourism draw (ski + beer = winning combo)

Greg Schirf's Impact:

• Evolution of Ski Town Breweries: Schirf's model inspired breweries in Aspen, Telluride, Jackson Hole
• Legal Advocacy: Worked with Utah legislators to loosen restrictions
• Mentorship: Many Utah brewers learned from Wasatch

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Visitor's Guide

How to Visit

Best Time:

• Winter (Ski Season): Park City location is packed—post-ski beer culture
• Summer: Salt Lake City location, outdoor patios

What to Order:

1. Polygamy Porter (mandatory—it's the legend)
2. Apricot Hefeweizen (Utah's twist on a German classic)
3. Devastator (if you want to feel it)
4. Jalapeño Cream Ale (polarizing, fun)

Food Pairing:

• Polygamy Porter + Bison Burger
• Apricot Hefe + Fish Tacos
• IPA + Buffalo Wings

Brewery Tours:

• Available by appointment
• Learn brewing process, history, legal battles
• Tasting included

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Cross-References

Related TKE-001 Destinations:

• Squatters Pub Brewery (1989) - Wasatch's sister brewery, merged under same parent
• Uinta Brewing (1993) - Wind-powered, award-winning
• Epic Brewing (2008) - Pushing boundaries

Related Content:

• The 3.2% Beer Law - How Utah's liquor laws shaped the industry
• Utah Brewers Guild - Advocacy and community
• GABF Awards History - Utah's national recognition

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The Bottom Line

Wasatch Brewery is more than Utah's first craft brewery. It's a cultural institution that proved:

✅ You can make world-class beer in a conservative state ✅ Humor and irreverence can challenge norms without alienating communities ✅ Quality wins over politics ✅ Ski towns and beer are a perfect match

Greg Schirf didn't just brew beer. He brewed a revolution.

And 40 years later, every time you drink a craft beer in Utah—you're drinking Greg's legacy.

So raise a glass of Polygamy Porter and remember:

"Why have just one?"

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Next Deep Dive: Squatters Pub Brewery - The second wave

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