Wasatch Brewery

# Wasatch Brewery: Utah's First Craft Beer Revolution

**Founded:** 1986
**Founder:** Greg Schirf
**Flagship Beer:** Polygamy Porter ("Why have just one?")
**Location:** Park City, Utah (original); Salt Lake City (expanded)
**Significance:** **First craft brewery in Utah**, sparked the state's craft beer movement
**Parent Company:** CANarchy Craft Brewery Collective (since 2017)
**Annual Production:** 20,000+ barrels
**GABF Awards:** Multiple Gold/Silver/Bronze medals

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## Opening

*It's 1986. Utah is deep in the grip of restrictive liquor laws, dominated by a conservative Mormon culture that views alcohol with suspicion. The state produces only 3.2% ABV beer for grocery stores—weak, watery, and uninspiring. Meanwhile, across America, a craft beer revolution is brewing in Portland, Seattle, and Boulder.*

*And then Greg Schirf, a ski bum with a law degree and a dream, opens **Wasatch Brewery** in Park City, Utah.*

*The tagline? **"Utah Beer. Elevated."***

Wasatch Brewery didn't just brew beer—it **challenged Utah's identity**. It proved that you could make world-class craft beer in the heart of Mormon country. And it did so with irreverent humor, award-winning brews, and a defiant middle finger to anyone who said it couldn't be done.

**Wasatch Brewery is the godfather of Utah craft beer. Everything that came after started here.**

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## Act I: The Founding - A Ski Town Brewery (1986)

### Greg Schirf: The Unlikely Brewer

**Who Was Greg Schirf?**
- **Not a brewer** (at first)—he was a **lawyer** who loved skiing
- Moved to Park City in the early 1980s to ski and escape the corporate grind
- Fell in love with craft beer during trips to Colorado (visited Boulder Beer Company, New Belgium)
- Saw an opportunity: **Utah had no craft breweries**

**The Vision**:
> "I wanted to brew beer that people actually wanted to drink. Not the watered-down 3.2% stuff. Real beer. And I wanted to do it in a ski town where people appreciate quality."

**The Challenge**:
- **Utah's liquor laws** were among the strictest in the nation
- Breweries could only serve beer **on-premise** (not sell packaged beer to-go)
- The Mormon-majority legislature was skeptical of alcohol businesses
- **3.2% ABV limit** for grocery store beer (anything stronger required state liquor stores)

**Schirf's Strategy**:
- Open as a **brewpub** (brew and serve on-site)
- Focus on **quality over quantity**
- Use **humor and irreverence** to disarm critics
- Build a brand that locals (even non-drinkers) could be proud of

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### The First Brew: 1986

**Location**: 250 Main Street, Park City, UT (original brewpub)

**The Opening**:
- Wasatch Brewery opened in **August 1986**
- **First craft brewery in Utah** (beating Squatters by a few years)
- Small operation: 7-barrel system, bar seating, limited menu
- Initial offerings: Pale Ale, Amber, Stout

**Immediate Reception**:
- **Locals loved it** (ski town tourists and Park City residents embraced craft beer)
- **National attention** (ski industry media covered "beer in Mormon country")
- **Resistance from conservative groups** (some called for boycotts, protests)

**Schirf's Response to Critics**:
> "We're not forcing anyone to drink. We're just giving people a choice. That's pretty American, isn't it?"

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## Act II: Polygamy Porter and the Power of Irreverence

### The Beer That Defined Wasatch

**Polygamy Porter** - Released 1989

**The Name**:
- A cheeky reference to **Mormon polygamy** (practiced by early LDS Church, outlawed in 1890)
- Tagline: **"Why have just one?"** (a double entendre: Why have one wife? Why have one beer?)

**The Controversy**:
- **Mormon Church was NOT amused**
- Some Utah politicians called it "offensive" and "disrespectful"
- Calls to ban the beer or force a name change

**Schirf's Defense**:
> "It's a joke. A good-natured joke. Polygamy is part of Utah's history. We're not mocking anyone—we're acknowledging it with humor. And besides, the beer is damn good."

**Why It Worked**:
1. **Quality First**: The beer itself was exceptional—rich, chocolatey, smooth
2. **Free Publicity**: Controversy = media coverage = brand awareness
3. **Cultural Commentary**: It poked fun at Utah's sanctimoniousness while celebrating local history
4. **National Appeal**: Visitors loved the audacity ("I drank Polygamy Porter in Utah!")

**Awards**:
- **GABF Silver Medal (1996, 2001)**
- **World Beer Cup Bronze (2004)**
- Consistently rated as one of the best porters in the U.S.

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### The "Blasphemous Brand" Strategy

**Other Controversial Beers**:

**"Evolution Amber Ale"** (1990s):
- Released during debates about teaching evolution in Utah schools
- Label featured Darwin's evolution diagram
- Pissed off creationists; sold like crazy

**"Polygamy Nitro Porter"** (2015):
- Nitro version of Polygamy Porter
- Even smoother, creamier
- Won GABF Gold (2015)

**Why This Approach Worked**:
- **Utah's beer drinkers** were often **non-Mormon or lapsed Mormons**—they appreciated the irreverence
- **Tourists** wanted a piece of "rebellious Utah"
- **Media** covered every controversy, giving Wasatch millions in free advertising

**Salt Lake Magazine (2023)**:
> "Wasatch Brewery's 'blasphemous branding' turned local beer into a national story. They proved you could challenge norms and still thrive in Utah."

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## Act III: Expansion and Evolution (1990s–Present)

### From Park City to Salt Lake City

**1999**: Wasatch opens a **second location in Salt Lake City** (originally on 2100 South, now relocated)

**2000s**: Squatters Pub Brewery (founded 1989) merges under **Utah Brewers Cooperative** (parent company for both Wasatch and Squatters)

**2017**: **CANarchy Craft Brewery Collective** acquires Utah Brewers Cooperative
- CANarchy: Portfolio includes Oskar Blues, Cigar City, Perrin Brewing
- Wasatch and Squatters maintain separate brands but share distribution

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### The GABF Dominance

**Great American Beer Festival (GABF) Awards**:
Wasatch has won **20+ medals** at GABF, including:

- **Polygamy Porter**: Silver (1996, 2001)
- **Polygamy Nitro Porter**: Gold (2015)
- **Devastator Double Bock**: Gold (2002)
- **Evolution Amber**: Bronze (multiple years)
- **Apricot Hefeweizen**: Silver (2004)

**Why This Matters**:
GABF is the **most prestigious beer competition in America** (10,000+ entries annually). Wasatch's consistent wins proved that **Utah beer could compete nationally**.

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### The 3.2% Law Fight

**The Old Law** (1930s–2019):
- Beer sold in grocery/convenience stores limited to **3.2% ABV** (by weight, ~4% by volume)
- Anything stronger required state liquor stores
- Wasatch (and other Utah breweries) had to brew **two versions** of many beers:
- **Draft/Liquor Store**: Full strength (5–7% ABV)
- **Grocery Store**: Watered-down 3.2% ABV

**The Change** (2019):
- Utah legislature **repealed the 3.2% law**
- Grocery stores could now sell beer up to **5% ABV**
- Wasatch and other breweries could sell **one version** in all retail channels

**Wasatch's Reaction**:
> "Finally. It only took 30 years. Now we can focus on brewing great beer instead of brewing two versions of everything."

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## What You Can Experience Today

### Wasatch Brewpub Locations

**1. Park City - "Top of Main"**
- **Address**: 250 Main Street, Park City, UT 84060
- **Vibe**: Original location, ski-town atmosphere, historic building
- **Menu**: Pub fare (burgers, wings, fish & chips) + full beer lineup
- **Events**: Live music, ski season specials

**2. Salt Lake City - Sugar House**
- **Address**: 2110 S Highland Dr, Salt Lake City, UT 84106
- **Vibe**: Casual neighborhood brewery, family-friendly
- **Menu**: Expanded food menu, craft cocktails, full beer lineup

**Taproom Hours**:
- Open 7 days/week (hours vary by location—check website)
- Tours available by appointment

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### The Beer Lineup

**Year-Round Beers**:
- **Polygamy Porter** - The flagship (5.5% ABV, rich, chocolatey)
- **Apricot Hefeweizen** - Wheat beer with apricot (4.5% ABV)
- **Jalapeño Cream Ale** - Spicy, refreshing (4.2% ABV)
- **Devastator Double Bock** - Big, malty, strong (8.2% ABV)
- **Wasatch IPA** - Classic West Coast IPA (6.5% ABV)

**Seasonals**:
- **Summerbrau Lager** (Summer)
- **Pumpkin Ale** (Fall)
- **1st Amendment Lager** (Rotating)

**Limited Releases**:
- **Barrel-Aged Series** (bourbon barrel-aged stouts, porters)
- **Collaboration Brews** (with other Utah breweries)

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## Key Facts at a Glance

| **Category** | **Details** |
|--------------|-------------|
| **Founded** | 1986 (first craft brewery in Utah) |
| **Founder** | Greg Schirf |
| **Flagship Beer** | Polygamy Porter ("Why have just one?") |
| **Locations** | Park City (original), Salt Lake City (Sugar House) |
| **Annual Production** | 20,000+ barrels |
| **Parent Company** | CANarchy Craft Brewery Collective (since 2017) |
| **GABF Awards** | 20+ medals (Gold, Silver, Bronze) |
| **Significance** | Pioneered Utah craft beer scene, challenged liquor laws |

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## The Legacy: How Wasatch Changed Utah

### Before Wasatch (Pre-1986):
- **Zero craft breweries** in Utah
- Weak 3.2% ABV beer dominated
- Beer culture was non-existent
- Utah was seen as a "dry" state (despite legal alcohol sales)

### After Wasatch (1986–Present):
- **Sparked Utah's craft beer movement** (now 30+ breweries)
- Proved craft beer could succeed in conservative markets
- Challenged and eventually helped change liquor laws
- Put Utah on the national craft beer map
- Created a tourism draw (ski + beer = winning combo)

**Greg Schirf's Impact**:
- **Evolution of Ski Town Breweries**: Schirf's model inspired breweries in Aspen, Telluride, Jackson Hole
- **Legal Advocacy**: Worked with Utah legislators to loosen restrictions
- **Mentorship**: Many Utah brewers learned from Wasatch

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## Visitor's Guide

### How to Visit

**Best Time**:
- **Winter (Ski Season)**: Park City location is packed—post-ski beer culture
- **Summer**: Salt Lake City location, outdoor patios

**What to Order**:
1. **Polygamy Porter** (mandatory—it's the legend)
2. **Apricot Hefeweizen** (Utah's twist on a German classic)
3. **Devastator** (if you want to feel it)
4. **Jalapeño Cream Ale** (polarizing, fun)

**Food Pairing**:
- Polygamy Porter + Bison Burger
- Apricot Hefe + Fish Tacos
- IPA + Buffalo Wings

**Brewery Tours**:
- Available by appointment
- Learn brewing process, history, legal battles
- Tasting included

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## Cross-References

### Related TKE-001 Destinations:
- **Squatters Pub Brewery** (1989) - Wasatch's sister brewery, merged under same parent
- **Uinta Brewing** (1993) - Wind-powered, award-winning
- **Epic Brewing** (2008) - Pushing boundaries

### Related Content:
- **The 3.2% Beer Law** - How Utah's liquor laws shaped the industry
- **Utah Brewers Guild** - Advocacy and community
- **GABF Awards History** - Utah's national recognition

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## The Bottom Line

**Wasatch Brewery** is more than Utah's first craft brewery. It's a **cultural institution** that proved:

✅ You can make world-class beer in a conservative state
✅ Humor and irreverence can challenge norms without alienating communities
✅ Quality wins over politics
✅ Ski towns and beer are a perfect match

**Greg Schirf didn't just brew beer. He brewed a revolution.**

And 40 years later, every time you drink a craft beer in Utah—**you're drinking Greg's legacy**.

So raise a glass of Polygamy Porter and remember:

**"Why have just one?"**

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**Next Deep Dive**: [Squatters Pub Brewery](Squatters.md) - The second wave

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